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BREWING
IN WINTER
When winter is upon
us, it is time to start thinking about making your best quality
lagers.
The History
Many people stop brewing during winter but it is in fact the best
time of the year to brew. The Oktoberfest in Germany is actually
a festival celebrating the re opening of the breweries in October,
which in Europe is late autumn.
The central Europeans discovered many years ago that the cold
weather made their beers much clearer and also more importantly
resulted in much cleaner tasting beers. This is the origin of all
lager style beers. These days the breweries operate all year round,
due to the advent of refrigeration. Obviously not everyone has
access to refrigeration so we home brewers use the next best thing,
winter.
The Principles
There are dozens of different strains of yeast available to breweries
today. They fall into two distinct categories. The yeast supplied
with home brew kits is always an ale type, as this functions within
the temperature range most easily achieved by home brewers. This
is despite the fact that the beers the are trying to emulate are
in many cases lager or pilsener types.
Most European and Australian commercially produced beers use the
bottom fermenting or lager yeasts. Lager yeasts operate best at
temperatures ranging from between 8 and 14 degrees.
Winter temperatures provide a good environment to brew with low
temperature lager yeasts in the back shed or in a cool room inside
the house.
All of this talk about fermenting at colder temperatures will
no doubt come as a bit of a shock to most people, especially if
you have been following the instructions on the cans of brewing
concentrate which call for temperatures of 18 to 24 degrees and
above. There are good reasons why these temperatures are recommended.
The main reason for the higher temperatures being recommended is
most kit yeasts will not function properly below 16 to 18 degrees.
In short, these have been picked because of their ability to operate
under a wide range of temperatures, making them more user friendly.
If you want to get a flavour near that of a particular commercial
beer, it is best to use the right kind of yeast.
THE PROCEDURE
The first thing to do is select the appropriate yeast for the
beer you want to make. Rather than go into a detailed explanation
of all the different varieties available, it would be much easier
to follow the types we have recommended in the list of recipes
that follow. The procedure for this type of brewing is no different
as far as mixing ingredients goes - the only difference occurs
with the fermentation.
The easiest way to explain any procedure is with the use of an
example, so I will go through the procedure for a typical lager
recipe and you can apply this method to your own recipe or standard
kit.
MARIBYRNONG LAGER
1 Can of Bacchus & Barley Lager
1 Kg Light Malt Extract
40 g Perle hops
Sachet of Saflager Yeast
Ferment @ 10 to 15 degrees
Final gravity approximately 1012-1014
Mixing the Brew
Boil 20 grams of the hops in 2 litres of litre of water for 10
minutes. Turn off the heat, add the remainder of the hops, put
the lid on the pot and allow to soak for 2-3 minutes. Strain through
a kitchen strainer into the brew. The boiled hops will add a little
bitterness and lots of flavour to the brew while the soak will
bring out the aroma.
Simply follow the instructions for a normal brew, but replace
the sugar called for on the can instructions with the malt extract
in the recipe.
Pour the contents of the Saflager sachet into the fermenter (Do
not add the standard yeast!).
The brew should start to ferment within
12 to 24 hours. Allow it to ferment at room temperature for 12
hours or so and then move
it into your cold garage or wherever you are planning to brew it.
Fermentation will take longer than normal but shouldn’t be
drastically increased. If it does take a little longer don’t
be too concerned. It is always best with any lager fermentation
to warm the fermenter to 18 deg C – 20 deg C for the last
couple of days to allow the fermentation to completely stop before
bottling. This will reduce the chance of the beer being overcarbonated.
Beer brewed using Lager yeast will not need to be kept warm in
the bottle to carbonate, so you can just leave the bottles in the
garage and they will carbonate perfectly.
Wyeast Liquid Yeast Cultures
You will notice that most of the recipes indicate a choice of
two yeasts. If you have never brewed cold before I would suggest
you start by using the Saflager lager yeast first and then trying
the liquid yeasts. Wyeast cultures are among the highest quality
yeasts available and are used in commercial breweries around the
world, but they are a little more finicky to use.
The surest and safest way to use this
yeast is to start it fermenting in a starter bottle. Follow the
method described for doing this
on the yeast package. For further information on this, ask for
a copy of our ‘Yeast’ brochure.
When using liquid yeasts it is very
important to adhere to the instructions regarding the temperature
of fermentation, as it is
very easy to produce fruity flavoured beers if you aren’t
careful with temperature control.
Reusing Wyeast Cultures
Due to the higher cost and special qualities of this yeast it
makes good sense to reuse them several times. This is simple to
do and safe, with little risk of infection. The procedure is as
follows:
When your brew us at the height of its fermentation, usually around
the three to four day mark, tap off 600-700 ml of the fermenting
beer into a sterilized soft drink bottle (plastic) and seal it
tight. Allow this to ferment a further 12-24 hours and then put
the bottle in your fridge. It is important to make sure that the
bottle has plenty of pressure in it when it is placed in the fridge.
The cold will put the yeast on hold until you are ready to use
it again.
To reactivate the yeast it is simply a matter of taking the bottle
out of the fridge one day before you want to brew, giving it a
good shake and allowing it to stand in a warm, dark spot. When
the contents of the bottle start to ferment it is read to add to
your next brew. This procedure can be repeated two to three times
before the yeast may mutate and affect the flavour of the brew.
As we tend not to have sterile conditions in our homes it makes
good sense to reuse the yeast as soon as possible, preferably within
a week or two.
RECIPES
PALE MUNICH LAGER
1 tin of Coopers Bavarian Lager
1.5 kg Light Malt Extract
30g Tettnang Hops
1 Sachet Saflager Yeast, or
Wyeast 2206 Bavarian Lager Yeast
Final gravity approximately 1013-1015
DARK MUNICH LAGER
1 Tin of Bacchus & Barley Burton
Ale
1.5kg Light malt extract
30g Hallertau Hops
1 Sachet Saflager Yeast, or
Wyeast 2308 Munich Lager Yeast
Final gravity approximately 1013-1015
BOCK
(Strong Amber-coloured Lager)
1 Tin Black Rock Bock
2.5 Kg Amber Malt Extract
1 Sachet Saflager Yeast, or
Wyeast 2206 Bavarian Lager Yeast
Final gravity approximately 1016-1018
CZECH PILSNER
This is a classic beer from Central
Europe, which is typically malty with a long, dry finish brought
about by a high level of
bitterness. If you don’t like hops in your beer I would suggest
this isn’t the beer for you.
1 Can of Coopers Brewmaster Pilsener
1.5kg Light Malt Extract
40g Saaz Hops
1 Sachet of Saflager Yeast, or
Wyeast 2124 Bohemian Lager Yeast
Final gravity approximately 1013-1015
TOOHEYS DRY STYLE
1 Can of Bacchus & Barley Draught
500g Dry Light Malt Extract
500g Dextrose
1 Bottle of Modiferm
1 Sachet of Saflager Yeast
Final gravity approximately 1002 or lower
These are just a few types for you to
try. You may also like to try some of the recipes in our brochure, ‘Your First Brew’,
using the cold brewing method. The Vic Bitter style, Fosters Lager
style as well as the European Pilsener would be good ones to try.
Hopefully we will have got you interested enough to have a go at
brewing quality lagers in winter. If you do I’m sure you
won’t be disappointed. If you need any assistance at all,
don’t hesitate to call us.
Note: A mild sulphur smell during fermentation is normal when
using low temperature yeasts and will disappear with maturation.
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